Start with midtones and paint everything with them. |
If the atmosphere is bright, then the objects should be bright. If the atmosphere is overcast, then the objects are all close to midtone. |
Three or five values in big, harmonious shapes (notan). Squint to see them. |
Low-contrast details close in value to that of the big shape for a ghost-like quality to emphasize the big, simplified shapes. |
Higher value contrast for subject. |
Low-contrast for awkward areas. |
Low-contrast for interior areas unless they're focal points. |
Group objects into one, low-contrast shape. |
Promote contrast with reverse-gradation. |
Different values for surface, walls, and ceiling. |
Brightest area might not be the focal point. |
Hard edges can be in the b.g. if they are low-contrast. |
Soft edges can be in the f.g. if they are high-contrast. |
Different local values for different object types. |
The more intense the lighting, the darker the shadow. |
Low-key lighting occupies the lower end of the value scale; high-key occupies the upper end; mid-key occupies the middle grays; full scale has the most contrast and occupies the full range (not necessarily all the values). A dark environment is always low-key and low-contrast. |
Dusk and dawn have the same values. |
A tense scene might use a full-scale key, while an ominous scene might use a low-key. |
Keep the light halftone short to avoid mud. |
Bounce lighting cannot be as bright as the light halftone or highlight unless there is a secondary light source. |
Values darken at the turning planes, including those that turn toward shadows and/or the environment. |
Cast shadows are not opaque, but you can make them so as long as the values are correct. |
Freshen your eyes every 20 mintues. |
Texture will affect the value ratio: cotton is absorbent, so it lacks the highlights of chrome. |
Metals have greater contrast than diffuse surfaces. |
Do not use modeling factors where they wouldn't be discernible in real life. |
Avoid dark values in nostrils and ear sockets, else they will draw the viewer's attention. |
Form light is beside and above the subject and promotes form. Front light is airy but lacks shadow shapes. Top light provides a god-like quality. Side-lighting is dramatic. Rim lighting is behind and above the subject and is edgy and hip. Backlighting creates a silhouette and even more monsterous than bottom-lighting. Usually, it's best to use multiple lights, with one stronger and closer than the others. |
There should be a cast shadow for each direct light source. |
With enough light or a really white room, there will be little or no shadows. Likewise with overcast skies. |
If there are particles or humidity in the air, light rays will reflect them. It'll look like a cone of light. |
Create the form shadows in the early stages. |
Do not use dark shadows on a white (or near-white) object. Use midtones or lighter. |
There should be more detail in areas hit by light. |
Sunlight is stronger than moonlight. The moon receives light from the sun, so the environment receives, at best, secondary lighting from the moon. The sun is a star, but it /appears/ brighter than the others stars (even though it is smaller than many of them) because it is so much closer to us. Don't paint what you know; paint what you see. |
On most specular highlights, there is a darker highlight around the brightest bright (unless it's on metal or shiny plastic). There is also darker texture in the highlight if the object has texture. |
The size of bounce lighting is determined by the size of the object bouncing the light. If the bounce lighting is big enough, the core shadow will be thinner. |
Either expose for the shadows or for the light. If for the shadows, the values of the shadows are raised to allow for more detail, and the light area will be blown out. |